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Turkey

Friends told me that air travel within Europe is very expensive, so I was not too surprised that the only ticket I could buy in the U.S. from Tel Aviv to Izmir was almost $300. Given current political conditions, finding my way over land would have been ill-advised for a Russian American Jew like myself, and trying to find a ferry in Israel was risky. What I did not realize is that the only tickets that Turkish Air sells abroad is first class. Well, all works out for the best, and I got to fly for the first time in First Class to Izmir. The luxury of having unlimited fresh-squeezed orange juice on the plane, and a comfortable place to wait in the first class lounge in the airport was quire refreshing after roughing it for a couple of weeks. It helped me get to Turkey rather refreshed to be met by Sema Gokcen at the airport. Sema was very gracious in offering me accommodations and helping me plan my route through Turkey. I spent the first day in Izmir, which is a scenic but not very touristy city.

Turkey is best traveled by buses, of which there are many, frequent, and cheap. This is what I did in a loop that took me south and then east along the coast from Izmir, cutting into the center of the country to wondrous Capaddocia, and then north-west to Istanbul.

From Izmir, I headed south to the city of Selcuk and the amazingly well preserved Roman ruins of Ephesus. From there, I headed on to the exclusive beach resort and yacht club in Bodrum. I tried my hand at scuba-diving there before heading along the coast to more everyday folk beaches at Fethiye. Fethiye involved a lovely hike, a crowded beach, and a 12-island cruise on clear blue waters that was very refreshing. Next I hopped on a slow bus that drove along the coast over cliffs to Antalya, and then overnight to Capaddocia.

If I had to pick a single highlight of the trip, it would have to be the unreal scenery of Capaddocia and the Ihlara Valley, where I spent a great couple of days hiking and camping. The nearly two rolls of film I shot during those days is a testament to how much I was entranced by the land, deservingly so in my opinion.

After Capaddocia I spent three days in Istanbul, a true cross-roads. It seems that every civilization in the Western world needed to go one way or another or another through Asia Minor (a.k.a. Turkey), and from the Romans and Greeks through the Mongols and Ottomans and to the British, they have all left their marks. I was surprised to find out that there are more Roman ruins in Turkey than in Italy, and more ancient Greek ruins than in Greece. Turkey is a live history lesson of western civilization.

My next stop was to be the source of much of western civilization - Greece.